Celebrating Asian Coffee | Q&A with Freda Yuan

I was introduced to producer Mr. Yé through my trusted friend Scott, who has extensive experience visiting local coffee-producing regions and understands their development. When I shared my criteria for potential producers—entrepreneurs with a growth mindset—Scott immediately recommended Mr. Yé. Although I hadn’t sampled Mr. Yé’s coffee, I went out to visit his farm in the mountains on this recommendation. I was immediately impressed by his meticulous and thorough approach. He keeps detailed records of the coffee cherries post-harvest, roasts and cups coffee himself, and has developed a keen sensory skill for identifying flavour nuances, giving him a distinct advantage in producing excellent coffee. The exceptional quality of our Taiwanese special edition, Qing Yé, makes this year's collection extra special.

This special edition micro lot is a rare varietal, SL34, that was naturally processed. This begins with handpicking and careful sorting of cherries to remove defects, followed by a controlled fermentation. Mr. Yé leverages his expertise to determine the optimal fermentation time before transferring the cherries to a mechanical dryer. The first half of the coffee drying process is done quickly to lock in the fruit and floral notes, before it is slowed down to elevate the quality of the aroma.

The attention to detail in the processing is reflected in the outstanding quality in the final cup. Complex and flavourful, Qing Yé has a vibrant acidity, rich aromas and notes of Apricot, Cranberry, and Earl Grey Tea.

Taiwanese coffee culture is deeply rooted in tea traditions, and this influence is evident in the appreciation for quality speciality coffee. Consumers are willing to pay a premium for a quality coffee experience. There are lots of independent coffee shops, many roasting their own small batches in-house to serve fresh to their customers.

While Taiwanese coffee has been cultivated for decades, it wasn’t until the Taiwan Private Collection Auction 2022, organised by the Alliance for Coffee Excellence, that it gained a prominent place on the specialty coffee map.

Sourcing Taiwanese coffee for export is notoriously difficult due to the developed domestic market, where local demand and higher prices often negate the need for foreign buyers. The higher price point is also driven by elevated production costs, relatively low yields, and a strong local market willing to pay a premium for domestically grown, high quality coffee.